Wind noise behind KRS screen ....

[kfrogzx7]

I've recently bought a Schuberth C3 Flip-front lid and after just a couple of rides I'm really pleased with it. It's very comfortable, light, good visibility and certainly very quiet ( after my Arai !! ). However, the quietness of the new lid, and the Owners Manual that came with it, have only served to highlight the problem that the turbulence from the screen causes a great deal of the noise I'm trying to reduce.
I'm 5'8" and however I adjust the spoiler the wind noise inside my lid is really tiring, if I sit up really tall or stand up on the pegs ( so head is in clear airstream ) the new helmet is astonishingly quiet, but seated back in the normal riding position the turbulence around my chin / neck area causes a lot of noise. This phenomenon is described in the Schuberth booklet.
I've now removed the spoiler completely as an experiment but have yet to test ride it, has anybody come across this problem or tackled it somehow ? Does it need a raised screen or perhaps even a lowered ( cut down ? ) one ?
Motorworks do a raised screen but at nearly 70 it'd be an expensive experiment if it didn't work for me ! Equally cutting off the trailing curved edge of the screen by 2" would be drastic, but cheap, and I feel might well be effective ( for me ) but if it wasn't .... Oops !!!
Any ideas, advice or experience welcome.

[ssray]

I have the same problem with a k100rs and a shei xr1000, I have my rs in winter spec with a 99p ebay gsxr600 screen taped to the top of the std one,not pretty but soooo much warmer when around freezing, no diffrence to the wind noise possibly worse, will post apic if i can.
Ray

[farzad]

Hi kfrogzx7
I have a C3 which I use on my R1200RT.
I'm 5 10".
The good thing about this bike is the electric screen, but the position of the screen doesn't make as much of a difference as the changes I can do to the helmet.
I have found "snapping" the visor shut and closing the chin vent make, as well as the vent at the top, make a huge difference to the noise.
Have you played with these settings ?

[kfrogzx7]

Thanks for replies boys.
I must admit I'm considering all sorts of modifications, mainly aiming at lowering the screen I think, but in the first instance I'll definitely go for the gaffer taped on cardboard " test screen" !
Having said that my brief test ride yesterday with the screens adjustable spoiler removed completely was a marked improvement I think. Turbulence was reduced and consequently the noise/buffeting of my lower helmet/collar area. ( btw it also looks quite good ). I'd like to move that turbulent airflow down to my upper chest/ shoulders area as an experiment, it might prove uncomfortable, but it might be tolerable if the noise could be brought down close to the helmets optimum ?
As far as the lid itself goes I'm definitely closing everything up ( it's pretty cold round here at the mo !!! ) and the C3 itself is definitely inherently quiet, which is actually providing me with the motivation to try to find a way of taking advantage of the helmets low noise potential.

BTW it's easy to spot C3 wearers walking around - the "inverted mohican" look is distinctive and I'm fully expecting teenagers to start approaching me asking how I achieved that cool look !! ( NOT )

[ts]

Hi kfrogzx7,

I went through this a couple of years ago shortly after buying my K-RS, and know exactly what the problem is. The noise is caused by turbulence caused by the concave shape of uppermost part of the windscreen. After removing the spoiler, and experimenting a little with cardboard taped on, I fitted a bit of plastic as shown in the picture below. It smoothed out the airflow over the top of the screen, and reduced my buffeting problem significantly. As opposed to the "screen-7" windscreen, my mod only required drilling of the screen, not the fairing. And the white colour improves the visibility of the bike as well.

[kfrogzx7]

That's a great tip and pic ts, thanks. It's actually exactly what I was mulling over myself ( incl the cardboard templates ) and I'm now determined to do something very similar to my KRS. I might even experiment with an even more radical solution which would be to use a flat perspex screen that was about an inch shorter than the standard one, this might not look very good ( Might shape it up at the upper corners ? ) but I wonder whether it would work even better than your modification ? Did you try anything like this ?
Is your original screen still in place and the flat screen screwed to it ? Because I can see that making a complete shorter replacement screen to fit nicely would be quite difficult due to the mounting points etc.
Anyway thanks a lot for the confirmation of my suspicions and a great idea for a solution !

[ts]

I might even experiment with an even more radical solution which would be to use a flat perspex screen that was about an inch shorter than the standard one, this might not look very good ( Might shape it up at the upper corners ? ) but I wonder whether it would work even better than your modification ? Did you try anything like this ?

No, I didn't consider shortening the screen, since what I fitted worked for me (6 ft 2-ish). Also, a shorter screen would in my opinion have looked odd between the fairing bits, and also have left me more exposed to the elements. Besides it would have been more difficult to fit, since the original screen is recessed below/behind the fairing, at the point it would have to be attached.

Is your original screen still in place and the flat screen screwed to it ?

Yes. I used four aluminium pop rivets along the lower edge, and two very small screws through holes drilled in the upper rounded edge of the original screen. So if I wanted to, I could just take off the external screen to make it look "original" again. Just a bit of glue needed to fill the six holes.

I got my sheet of white plastic from a local hobby model shop, at a cost of a couple of pounds.

[SteveD]

This is also a common complaint from R100RS riders. The usual fix there is one of or a combo of:
1. fit a taller screen
2. trim the existing screen
3. fit a laminar lip (taller screen effect)
4. cut a naca duct into the front lower section of the screen (rarer)
5. earplugs.

The flat screen perspex solution shown above looks and sounds effective from the report. Might I suggest an alternative method of attaching the addition.

This is a picture of a (very well used) xmas tree fastener. They're commonly used in auto trimming.
I use these to attach the screen on my R100RS to the fairing dash.
They have distinct advantages imo.
They're cheap, they're available easily, they can be reused over and over, they take seconds to install and hardly any longer to remove.
Most importantly, they hold the screen on very well. It's just a matter of matching the fastener width to the hole you make.

[Clive James]

You can get screen fasteners from your local Halfords store in various colours :- http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... &x=33&y=16

Clive.