Hi guys, my first post on a non starter

[alleywatson]

Hi everyone am based in Leeds and own an R1100RT, don't see many Bavarian beasts round these parts

I kinda wish I never even bothered doing a fuel filter change as Ive opened a can of worms big time, Ive changed the filter and thought it was quite an easy job and self explanatory really and couldnt believe the difference when blowing through it compared to the old one which had never been changed and done a whopping 70,000 miles, wow ! anyway, since doing that Ive had a load of trouble with the idle speed, fuel level sender and leaks, anyway, the idle Im not too bothered about as yet, as I really wanted to get the leak sorted which I did and found out was a rusty plate that had badly corroded and was probably only sealing the hole with rust and muck before I got to it, so I changed the plate including pump, level sender, and hoses for another which does not leak on the seal like it used to, but seems to leak when I turn on the pump when its all connected up, oh, and it doesnt fire up also, and Ive just fitted a reconditioned starter and its not having it at all, Im getting a few drips every time I hear the pump working, aagghhhhh ! I know its a pressurized system and its possible its spitting fuel out from somewhere but I cant find where.

Any ideas why it wont be starting ?


Alex

[Jaythro]

Alex Sorry MAte but thats like how long is a bit of string

As you know you have 2 x rubber hoses which could be perished or have a small crack or puncture

You then have plastic pipes that connect to the fuel pressure regulator which lives just in front of the airbox below the battery

You shouldn;t have quick release clamps are per pic 2 but if you have? The sealing rings on the end of the make connector should be changed well BM say every time

fuel pipe system.png

r1100 Fuel connectior.png

[alleywatson]

Hi jaythro many thanks for the quick reply, so based on what you're saying you mean the clips on the airbox are to be taken off and underneath inspected for 2 sealing rings which may be causing it not to start, hmmm ok i'll have a look today, and when you say BM say every-time, do you mean every time I take the tank off ?. Great pics by the way, where did you get them from ?

Alex

[Jaythro]

so based on what you're saying you mean the clips on the airbox are to be taken off and underneath inspected for 2 sealing ring

No Alex what I was talking aboutwas quick release couplings you may not even have quick release couplings on your rubber fuel hoses (they are part 3 on the lower pic) The other thing is are there jubilee clips or PROPER petrol pipe clips on your rubber lines?

If they are Jubilee clips they are too big and clumsy and pinch the lines and can leave a gap!


Whta I was talking about was The hard plastic 8mm diameter fuel pipes They are at the front edge of the airbox and teh pressure regulator is about the middle (parts 2,3,4, 12, and 13 in the upper drawing) So It's unlikely that you have a leak there There are 2 o rings at the injectors but you should be able to see a leak there

You can run / ride these bikes with the side plastics off (empty the tank pocket of papers first tho!) but don;t run them too long and as far as the idle goes check that both throttle cables are inserted in thier stops!

throttle cable problem.jpg

[alleywatson]

Ok, thanks for the reply again, today I managed to get it started up and running, but it's not sounding too healthy. It sounds like a machine gun when I open the throttle it really does sound awful. It just gets worse & worse...

[Jaythro]

Alley Check the throttle cables as the picture in my post above! MAke sure both throttles are firmly back on thier rest stops

[Jaythro]

The tab to release the splitter box is below the right hand side of

it you push down and the splitter box comes out like a cassette

You'll need the fast idle control (choke) and left thgrottle cable off and quite possibly the airbox~engine breather tube

You can slide it out below but It's a pain in the arse that way

DSC01791.JPG

[alleywatson]

Hi, thanks for the pic, so the tab's on the right hand side of the bike ?

[Jaythro]

Alley if you click on the pic it gets bigger then you can see the two cables and the oil breather being held down by my bendy nose plyers

[alleywatson]

Sorry yeah,ok didn't spot that, thanks again

[alleywatson]

hiya Jay, just tried that tab in your pic and it seems like it's rusted away and isn't even connected to anything, as it does move up an inch or so anyway but then hits the ABS pipes..... ? am I doing sth wrong, just don't want a burst pipe you see

[ilkleyal]

hiya Jay, just tried that tab in your pic and it seems like it's rusted away and isn't even connected to anything, as it does move up an inch or so anyway but then hits the ABS pipes..... ? am I doing sth wrong, just don't want a burst pipe you see

Where abouts in leeds are you mate? (don't give me your address on the forum) If you get really stuck I will have a look for you as I am near Wetherby.

Al.

[Jaythro]

hiya Jay, just tried that tab in your pic and it seems like it's rusted away and isn't even connected to anything, as it does move up an inch or so anyway but then hits the ABS pipes..... ? am I doing sth wrong, just don't want a burst pipe you see

Alley the cassette will slid out that side the wee tang is just a holder and you push down to release it

[alleywatson]

Hiya Jay, hore your busy, err but not too busy. :) I really want to get rid of the side stand safety thing, I want to be able to fire it up on the side stand and I've heard there's a mod to enable this, mines playing up now and I can't start the bike cos I've cleaned the stand and prolly disturbed the bloody switch, so I'd rather just sack it off and modify it.

Any ideas from that ever growing brain of yours ?, I'll have to start calling you uncle Jay soon, or just Guru, anyway I'll let you decide on that....

over & out

Alex

[Jaythro]

Hi Ally I'll delve in Me library of useful BMW stuff and mail ya the document

[alleywatson]

Right, managed to change ignition sensors using your great guide and done a bit of carbtune syncing @ 4,000 revs and @ tickover but we’re finding it’s running a bit rich are we right in turning the brass air screw, it’s just that we don’t quite know If the screw is affecting it running rich and screwing it in is reducing the air and vica versa, it did fire first time Bear in mind it’s been off the road for about 6 weeks at least that I remember,

hmmm

[Jaythro]

It will be rich until you get up to temperature!

Otherwise you need a friendly garage with a Co meter and you need to remove the sidepanels and go for a run

get it up near full temp and drive into the garage and let it tick over

Then on the Left side just below seat level and roughly where your hip would be you should see some connections and a black L shaped thing if you look Up from below there is another big brass screw in the L shape

When on the CO meter the reading you want is between 1.5 to 2.25% So let the machine stabilise and see what you are at

I think it is clockwise to reduce CO and vice versa

N.B. (1) If you aare close to the desired result Only do 1/4 turns either way and give it 30 secs to register if you are near the end figure or not

........(2) Only run at tickover constantly for 5 to 7 mins in case you overheat unless you have a big fan blowing over the engine or if you do it outside and it's freezing

[alleywatson]

aha I know the screw, I saw it earlier when I was looking to do that stand mod but once again you've saved my Yorkshire bacon, I'll try that this week if I can..
Don't suppose you know why I'm not getting a fuel level on the RID ? it's prolly in the tank but I don't remember what was what, the orange light is working that's for sure but no level on the increments , hmmm

Thanks again Jay :)

[Jaythro]

Don't suppose you know why I'm not getting a fuel level on the RID ? it's prolly in the tank but I don't remember what was what, the orange light is working that's for sure but no level on the increments , hmmm

Orange light on and No increments means there's no fuel

Fill it up yer Cheapskate !

[Dan Gleebitz]

Hiya Jay, hore your busy, err but not too busy. :) I really want to get rid of the side stand safety thing, I want to be able to fire it up on the side stand and I've heard there's a mod to enable this, mines playing up now and I can't start the bike cos I've cleaned the stand and prolly disturbed the bloody switch, so I'd rather just sack it off and modify it.

Any ideas from that ever growing brain of yours ?, I'll have to start calling you uncle Jay soon, or just Guru, anyway I'll let you decide on that....

over & out

Alex

Have a look at this site .... http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/

[ilkleyal]

aha I know the screw, I saw it earlier when I was looking to do that stand mod but once again you've saved my Yorkshire bacon, I'll try that this week if I can..
Don't suppose you know why I'm not getting a fuel level on the RID ? it's prolly in the tank but I don't remember what was what, the orange light is working that's for sure but no level on the increments , hmmm

Thanks again Jay :)

Hello,

If you think its rich try removing the air filter (only for the purpose of this test) and note what changes. Then report back.

The symptoms you describe are more like fuel starvation but there may be so many other factors that its not easy to tell from here. Whip out the plugs, Are they black and sooty? if so its rich, if they are nice, clean and slightly orange in hue then its ok bordering towards lean. Truth is its likley to be fine and you may have introduced the fault attempting to set the bodies. Make sure there is fuel in it!

You should only have made very small changes indeed from the original settings if it was running in the first place. Check here for a video I made detailing the process with a more accurate instrument than a commercialy bought balancer. You are welcome to borrow the item in the vid (the manometer not the bike ) as long as I get it back.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEE508WzNC8

Al.

[alleywatson]

Right, whipped plugs out and checked, they were sooty as hell and big black clouds were coming out when I revved it, (no joke)
it was cold though, pulled the filter and closed the lid and it didn't really make any difference apart from it made it harder to start
hope this helps...

[ilkleyal]

Right, whipped plugs out and checked, they were sooty as hell and big black clouds were coming out when I revved it, (no joke)
it was cold though, pulled the filter and closed the lid and it didn't really make any difference apart from it made it harder to start
hope this helps...

Have you got the haynes manual? this details the proceedure for setting the throttle bodies.

If all this has started since you changed the fuel filter then you need to retrace your steps and find out what you have done as this reads like its been introduced.