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G650GS Sprocket wear

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Postby bart » Wed Apr 18, 2012 6:58 am

Hi Folks
Just had to change the sprockets and chain on my G650GS, at 5,500 miles. You can see from the photo the exessive wear on the rear sprocket, with hooked and broken teeth, the bike only puts out 48bhp for gods sake, I thought this kind of wear was a thing of the past, last time I saw a sprocket that bad it was on my Kawasaki 500 H1A triple!
So factoring in another £120 for OEM chain and sprockets every 6000 miles seem expensive to me ,hopefully the aftermarket industry will start producing these soon, as the original parts are clearly rubbish.
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Postby Galactic Greyhound » Wed Apr 18, 2012 10:58 am

Hi Bart,

That certainly looks like excessive wear for the mileage - should be a lot better than that but a lot depends on the conditions that the bike has been ridden in.

Has it been used daily throughout the winter? - salt, road grit and rain causes havoc with the chain and sprockets.

Have you got a Scottoiler or similar fitted? - the cost is repaid with longer chain and sprocket life.

My last chain driven bike used to get the chain boiled up in a tin of chain grease in the I'm an idiot spammer selling junk until I forgot about it - since then bike parts have been banned from the house. :sad:
Ced.

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Postby george baker » Wed Apr 18, 2012 6:28 pm

Hi
I remember LinkLife as well, it stank the house out

George
Member 21, R100R, K75 and a Hyosung 250 FOR SALE
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Postby Mike D » Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:50 pm

I remember LinkLife as well, it stank the house out


I think the older ( :-" ) ones off us around have had that experience. :lol:

Mike
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Postby bart » Thu Apr 19, 2012 7:06 am

I was using Silkolene Chain Lube, it is white so you can easily see if youv'e missed a bit, its really sticks to the chain, and this is the bit I suspect is the root of the problem. I think the sand, grit and salt stick to the grease and form a perfect grinding paste. The chain was thoroghly cleaned and lubed once a week, and lubed inbetween these times, as the weekly commute is 250 miles I felt this to be about right.
I have reverted to using sae90 painted on with a paintbrush, we will see what the next 6000 miles brings.

thanks for the nostalgia trip, the waft of hot graphite and grease, :-"
your mum shouting [-X
- those were happier days! :lol:
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Postby P-K » Thu Apr 19, 2012 9:16 am

It is stories like this that make me re-evaluate possible future bikes.

I've been looking at a possible replacement for one of my older bikes (My 9 year old R1150R) and the F800R was one of my options.
BUT - it's chain driven, not belt like the ST but chain life the "F" GS range.

Why don't BMW put a belt or shaft on it ?
Phil,
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Postby george baker » Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:36 pm

Hi
or a totally enclosed chain case
George
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Postby AppleTart » Fri Aug 09, 2013 8:31 am

P-K wrote:It is stories like this that make me re-evaluate possible future bikes.

I've been looking at a possible replacement for one of my older bikes (My 9 year old R1150R) and the F800R was one of my options.
BUT - it's chain driven, not belt like the ST but chain life the "F" GS range.

Why don't BMW put a belt or shaft on it ?


I bought an F650GS new in '04 and at 6K miles fitted a scottoiler. I ran the bike for 6 years and 35K and sold it with the original chain & sprockets that were worn but didn't warrant replacement.

I've now bought an '05 GS with 3.5K and I'll fit a chain luber first chance I get.
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Postby Twisty » Fri Aug 09, 2013 11:46 am

Is the wear anything to do with parking the bike in a hedge?? :-"

Seriously tho' - I had a Triumph Tiger a few years ago and was amazed at how good the chain was. Far better than I remember my old British single and twins which needed the chain adjusting every 5 minutes!!

Could it be BMW have used materials that are not really up up the task of transmitting 48 BHP?
2006 K1200GT SE
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Postby bwprice100 » Fri Aug 09, 2013 12:35 pm

Rollers not rolling on the chain.

Brian
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Postby elray247 » Wed Apr 09, 2014 9:48 am

Rollers not rolling is a sound bet.
Low grade steel.
BAD chain adjustment and/or maintenance.
Excess on and off the throttle. (Racing use)
As a rule steel will out last alloy 3 to 1.
Sidewinder make really good kit.

NON-O'Ring chain:
Buy an O'Ring chain or a Scott oiler.
Wash in petrol, dry, boil in grease after every ride.
(God those were the days)

O'RING CHAIN:

NEVER LUBE an O'Ring Chain, they are sealed for life units.
Oil/grease just attracts dirt and makes grinding paste, damaging the o'rings and causing excess wear on the sprockets.
A VERY light oil with old motor oil just to keep the surface rust off until the next ride. (If you have too)
NEVER use Anti Seize or other such penetrating spray oils. (You know the ones)
NEVER use a wire brush to clean an o'ring chain.
NEVER Pressure wash an o'ring chain.
Pressure washing is a major cause of chain and bearing failure.
Get some flexable plastic cable conduit, cut it down the middle, use this to cover the chain when washing the bike.
If you have to clean the chain, warm/hot soapy water and a nylon bristle brush.
Always replace chain and sprockets as a matched set.
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Postby george baker » Wed Apr 09, 2014 12:22 pm

HI
george baker
or a totally enclosed chain case
but people tell me I am an oldfasioned fart for wanting that

George
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Postby elray247 » Wed Apr 09, 2014 4:02 pm

Old fashioned, just like when all bicycles came With Mudguards.

The only bike that comes quickly to mind with a totally enclosed chain case was the Yamaha AG series (AG175).
Trouble was the set-up lasted so long that people forgot to look inside and adjust the chain until it started to make a hole in the chain case.
I know 2-strokes are rattly but surely the metallic grinding noise from the rear end was a clue. ?
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