BM Bikes & BM Riders Club

Ferodo Platinum FDB2125P Fronts and FDB 2039P are a favourite of mine

Good Stopping Great feel and not terribly expensive and don;t tend to wear out your discs as with Sintered or HH pads

If you still have the ABS Servo operational They can be very hard on rear pads and your fronts will be okay

Surgical spirit ?? and have you tried warming it a little ?

Setting it in a tub / bucket of hot water

Many options but my "Go To" as the Americans say is the Odyssey PC680 A battery "shop" will be able to sort you out "BUT" beware of the Golf cart batteries They do work okay if they are 22 amp, but struggle at 20 amp and don't even bother with the 18 Upi may have to modify the connections to match too

Exactly as you have described ! Length of a Parcel tying Medium?

If you are doing lots of Urban riding / commuting it will wear out faster with all the start and stops, against doing long runs in the country side

If you have doubts about it Then just change it for peace of mind

YEs it will

Final Drive My preferred choice is 85W140 something nice and heavy like that

There is a paste but its expensive for a tube Optimoly TA I Think

Actually Motorworks sell it of you ask them for spline lube for an Oilhead

Love Sidecars They are great Fun If not a tad scary the first few times A bag or two of gravel in the boot or passenger seat is a great steadier When you brake it swings to the right (Unless a braked chair too) and when you accelerate it swings to the left getting them set up so you are relaxed at a...

Boiling water is best it dissolves and flushes away the salts

White vinegar is also quite good

Oh Gawd!!! There is going to be a Tin Foil shortage Soon! Seriously every site you visit is monitored Everything you buy with a card is monitored your mobile phone can track you! (even with the GPS off) ;) When you get the vaccine? Can you folks tell me if your Mobile Data rate improves (Joking as i...

The latest fave rave just in case problems are not hard enough to fix is to put the hydraulic slave cylinder around the gearbox input shaft. Any sort of problem at all is a gearbox / engine split. Scania have done this since the 4 series came out "Pull type Clutches" where instead of pushing to com...

Its not far off, The Spring assembly on that example is to the rear of the assembly where as BMW use a spring disc at the front The rod to take the pressure off the assembly passes through the input shaft of the gearbox and is activated by you pulling the lever up on the bars on the BM set up So bas...

I’ve heard a dozen times that the rough running is causes by weak mixture at low rpm, and that the John Gemi chip cures that, so isn’t it possible to adjust the TPS so the Motronic thinks the rpm is higher, and thus gives more fuel, or doesn’t it work that simply. YEs you can "Enrich" the mixture a...

Thanks. Perhaps I'll take you up on that in the future.

You have a private message waiting Andy I have some spares that might interest you ?

It makes very little odds IF I recall correctly the 33/11 is the RS version Give you a little more grunt from the off and teh 33/12 is the LT type touring ratio Those Final drives are pretty universal between the bikes from the first paralever K's to the Oilhead models Only ABS models on Oilheads ha...

Be careful if I recall correctly Spoked Wheel

There is an issue with Disc width between calipers

Whether you have a 2 rib or 3 rib hub The raised sections around the central hub

Rings if you want call them that

A totally crap design of thing in a crap place They are a variable resistance rather than the previous old fashioned contact switch on the 1100 1150 oilheads Be warned if a good clean out and drying and an application of something Like ACF50 grease doesn;t cure it You will likely need a new gear pos...

If some one has the technical ability to strip a Final Drive down to that state they have no need to send it to someone who will charge them a couple of hundred pounds to rebuild their drive K100 and K1100 Final drives are VERY under stressed, with the rhythmic 3 or 4 cylinder motor pulses as oppose...

The diff on this bike is from 1999 unit and its a 33/12 my bike is from 1993 think it should be 33/11 What's the difference? One thing John Its a final Drive not a Diff sorry for being picky The needle bearings that fell inside are nothing to do with the Final Drive They fell apart on Dismantling i...

Just don't start them and let them idle! It used to say that on a sticker somewhere

and if you are really worried add a couple of bits of stainless steel to deflect / dissipate the heat

Here’s the thread where I mention the zero zero method and Jaythro poo poos it. The choice is youurrrs :grin: The risk of screwing something up is high for very little gain To be honest Andy If you want me to talk you through doing a throttle set up and a TPS check I am well happy to call you, and ...

Oh How that propshaft is going to eat UJs and vibrate happily along with the standard Knobbly tyres ! :(

I changed the diff oils

What Specification oil Not viscosity did you put in ??

It HAS To be GL5 Spec and not a hybrid GL4 /5 or even worse GL4

I use EP85W140 GL5 in all my BM final drives now

and Plain old EP80 or 90 in the gearbox But Again GL5 specification

It's not often where we differ Rob the 850 1100 1150 Final drive is indeed a very robust design and to be honest the usual Even at the dealership is to replace the bad bearing and to reassemble and check for play The taper roller to the outer side very rarely wears unless it has got bits/chunks of t...

The way I see it If I had a motorcycle that came in my workshop and had a "Rumbling" or with play Final Drive I would be very inclined to investigate ASAP and would not let the bike leave the workshop until rectified Rear bearing collapse on a shaft drive bike could be a fatal Yes the rider SHOULD C...

How can a rumbling diff be an MOT fail?

Likely to have excessive play when they go