The Search for a Brick

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bstardchild
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Re: The Search for a Brick

Postby bstardchild » Mon Oct 02, 2017 10:57 pm

Had a little 100 mile run out on K1200RS - getting used to it slowly (bloody indicators - I'd forgotten how long it took me to get used to them last time I had a BMW)

It was a bike show I got to every other year and as always Seastar were doing 2 dyno power runs for £25 (Proceeds to charity) so I got them to run it

Image

Book figure is 130 bhp from memory so a very respectable 115 bhp at the rear wheel and nice fueling across the rev range after 55,000 miles and several owners says the engine seems to be happy.

I have a few jobs to do on it over the winter and I'd better order a pair of tyres because the front has seen better days and definitely doesn't give you confidence and the rear has been squared off a bit

bstardchild
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Re: The Search for a Brick

Postby bstardchild » Wed Jun 20, 2018 10:59 pm

Getting a bit more use this year - I'm actually getting used to the heavy throttle

New tyres fitted end of last year so they are now scrubbed and the bike feels a lot more planted

What I can't live with is how quiet the bike is - open the throttle and all you hear is induction noise

So I had planned to get a second hand std exhaust from that well known auction site and apply my std technique of gutting the std can and fitting the internals from a slip on silencer however this popped up in my search - remus full system for K1200RS

It was sound but scruffy - silencer can was corroded to heck but wet and dry followed by a polishing mop brought it back to a much more presentable appearance

New gaskets and nuts on order so I can fit it

I don't think it's going to be very noisy as it's not a straight thro can - unless people know different

Oh and the reason for selling was the guy was breaking a complete K1200RS so he could use the head and throttle bodies on an A series engine in a MG Midget
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Jaythro
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Re: The Search for a Brick

Postby Jaythro » Sun Jun 24, 2018 11:05 am

So what's wrong with it?
Indicator pods frequently fall off
There are small cupped spring clips that the ball ends clip into, If I recall they should have a ring around their outer ends it is possible to tighten them up by bending the tags with wire clippers Also fitting fishing wire to them that saves them getting lost of they come off at any speed May mate lost a mirror off his K100LT and when he walked back to get it a Truck ran over it just as he got near to it
Oil seal leak in the clutch housing - so might be dealing with that soonish but it has yet to mark it's territory
There's a small hole just at the lowest point where the gearbox meets the bell housing it blocks with clutch dust

My friend mentioned that his clutch was slipping but only under load in top gear and it had 120K on it so I set it up on my ramp and before I started I decided to see why the gearbox / bell housing seam was damp but the base of the box was dry?

To my surprise oil "pished" out but stopped when the hole choked again

So I commenced the strip down and had a drain tray below the box as I split it off the bell housing

I remember there was a tide line in side the bellhousing and clutch and the clutch had been running in oil to at least a 1/3rd of its height!

I think there was 3 litres of oil that came out of there

My Advice When you go to change the crank seal Grease EVERYTHING that needs grease on your way in and Waxoyl the hard to clean parts as you build it on the way out and DO NOT USE THE STUPID BMW SEAL buy a standard nitrile or viton double lip seal, 50 x 80 x 10 The BM one needs preformed and can tear easily I have only ever caught one on an 1150GSA front crank seal and I pulled it out threw it in the Bin and have never used one of those stupid things ever since!
Up then I had maybe fitted a 100 over the years always taking great care to preform it etc

Not because of any problem with the seal but I was awakened to the chances of error and then as an independent workshop I have to stand over it if it leaks etc Which is a bummer if you have to get back in side one of these!! Double lip viton Much more assured to fit and equally or if not more durable
I think I fitted 15 to 20 for customers who had done their own seals and then they needed it fixed properly ( I always informed people I was changing seal types )
"Put your Ass on a motorcycle and ride with an attitude and the "Grim Reaper" will ride in your shadow!"

Islandmagee in case you're interested?

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Jaythro
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Re: The Search for a Brick

Postby Jaythro » Sun Jun 24, 2018 11:09 am

Heavy throttle cable? Its routed wrong or chaffed through the outer plastic on something and maybe rusted and binding

Oh heres' some homework for you If you want it viewtopic.php?f=13&t=17277&p=164045
"Put your Ass on a motorcycle and ride with an attitude and the "Grim Reaper" will ride in your shadow!"

Islandmagee in case you're interested?

bstardchild
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Re: The Search for a Brick

Postby bstardchild » Sun Jun 24, 2018 12:35 pm

Heavy throttle cable? Its routed wrong or chaffed through the outer plastic on something and maybe rusted and binding

Oh heres' some homework for you If you want it viewtopic.php?f=13&t=17277&p=164045
Read that post a while back very useful :cool:

The throttle isn't stupidly heavy like binding or slow to return - it's just more sprung than I would like or I am used to

bstardchild
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Posts: 15
Joined: Sun Jul 23, 2017 9:18 am
Country of Residence: UK
Location: Norfolk 'n Good

Re: The Search for a Brick

Postby bstardchild » Sun Jun 24, 2018 12:43 pm

So what's wrong with it?
Indicator pods frequently fall off
There are small cupped spring clips that the ball ends clip into, If I recall they should have a ring around their outer ends it is possible to tighten them up by bending the tags with wire clippers Also fitting fishing wire to them that saves them getting lost of they come off at any speed May mate lost a mirror off his K100LT and when he walked back to get it a Truck ran over it just as he got near to it
I bought two new backing parts from BMW - that's firmed them up as it replaces 2 out of the three clips
Oil seal leak in the clutch housing - so might be dealing with that soonish but it has yet to mark it's territory
There's a small hole just at the lowest point where the gearbox meets the bell housing it blocks with clutch dust

My friend mentioned that his clutch was slipping but only under load in top gear and it had 120K on it so I set it up on my ramp and before I started I decided to see why the gearbox / bell housing seam was damp but the base of the box was dry?

To my surprise oil "pished" out but stopped when the hole choked again

So I commenced the strip down and had a drain tray below the box as I split it off the bell housing

I remember there was a tide line in side the bellhousing and clutch and the clutch had been running in oil to at least a 1/3rd of its height!

I think there was 3 litres of oil that came out of there

My Advice When you go to change the crank seal Grease EVERYTHING that needs grease on your way in and Waxoyl the hard to clean parts as you build it on the way out and DO NOT USE THE STUPID BMW SEAL buy a standard nitrile or viton double lip seal, 50 x 80 x 10 The BM one needs preformed and can tear easily I have only ever caught one on an 1150GSA front crank seal and I pulled it out threw it in the Bin and have never used one of those stupid things ever since!
Up then I had maybe fitted a 100 over the years always taking great care to preform it etc

Not because of any problem with the seal but I was awakened to the chances of error and then as an independent workshop I have to stand over it if it leaks etc Which is a bummer if you have to get back in side one of these!! Double lip viton Much more assured to fit and equally or if not more durable
I think I fitted 15 to 20 for customers who had done their own seals and then they needed it fixed properly ( I always informed people I was changing seal types )
The seal info is useful - I have a new BMW OE seal but I'll now inspect it carefully and if required based on your advice look for an alternative


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