Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

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russ1150
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Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby russ1150 » Thu Jul 12, 2018 10:21 pm

I came into the ownership of an R1150RS a couple of months ago, it was a good price and a good buy having put at least 1500 miles in lovely weather since bought, on the whole I am very pleased. Its pretty clean for its 14 yr old 90k miles but does show signs of 'all winter' use. There is history up to about 60-70k miles but this was a few years ago it has obviously sat about a bit since then MOTs only giving 1 or 2k miles per year since.

I did an oil and filter service as soon as I got it home as I could not ascertain when it had been previously done. Reasonably straightforward though its the first oil filter I've come across where you actually need the tool :shock:
-Also replaced the front fork seals as one of these was leaking, again straightforward similar to ones done before.

Next plan is to do the gearbox and shaft oil - GL5 80/90 ? how big a bottle needed?

The back tyre was on its last legs when deal struck and is now definitely needing replacing the rear wheel looks to have 4 bolts and come off much like a car wheel or is there more to it than that?

I have a Delkevic rear pipe to add and thinking may as well do this whilst the back wheel out, the standard issue isnt leaking but it looks pretty scuzzy especially underneath and I reckon there is weight & fuel savings to be had as well as adding to the looks/sound quality :wink:
The front pipes arent much better looking but appear to be stainless so gonna have a go at cleaning up if not stove paint them?

Fastner replacement - will be a thing-
does anyone have caliper bolt sizes for front calipers?
Front facing engine case bolts size?
possibly more on this as time goes on lol
Russ :wink:
BIKE CV:
Current: 2004 R1150RS
Previous: 2000 Honda 650 Deauville, 1997 ZZR 600E , 1993 GT550, 1991 GT750, 1983 CBX550, 1979 CX500, 1974 CB200

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Galactic Greyhound
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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby Galactic Greyhound » Thu Jul 12, 2018 11:12 pm

I came into the ownership of an R1150RS a couple of months ago, it was a good price and a good buy having put at least 1500 miles in lovely weather since bought, on the whole I am very pleased. Its pretty clean for its 14 yr old 90k miles but does show signs of 'all winter' use. There is history up to about 60-70k miles but this was a few years ago it has obviously sat about a bit since then MOTs only giving 1 or 2k miles per year since.

I did an oil and filter service as soon as I got it home as I could not ascertain when it had been previously done. Reasonably straightforward though its the first oil filter I've come across where you actually need the tool :shock:
-Also replaced the front fork seals as one of these was leaking, again straightforward similar to ones done before.

The fork seals generally leak at times due to dirt in the slider oil. If it happens again invest in the SealMate tool (Ebay) for around £7.

Next plan is to do the gearbox and shaft oil - GL5 80/90 ? how big a bottle needed?

For my R1100RT -
Final Drive: Top up to base of filler hole threads (max capacity 0.23l). Filler 23 Nm (17 lb/ft). Drain 23 Nm (17 lb/ft).
Gearbox: Top up to level of filler hole [max capacity 0.8l] Filler 23 Nm (17 lb/ft). Drain 23 Nm (17 lb/ft).


The back tyre was on its last legs when deal struck and is now definitely needing replacing the rear wheel looks to have 4 bolts and come off much like a car wheel or is there more to it than that?

For my R1100RT:
There is also a large flat washer which is fitted between the rear wheel and the Final Drive wheel mount and this will drop out or be stuck on the inside of the wheel boss ready to fall off and hide when you are not looking.
Rear: Wheel bolts initial 50 Nm (37 lb ft), final 105 Nm (77 lb ft).


I have a Delkevic rear pipe to add and thinking may as well do this whilst the back wheel out, the standard issue isnt leaking but it looks pretty scuzzy especially underneath and I reckon there is weight & fuel savings to be had as well as adding to the looks/sound quality :wink:

Mmmm - watch it doesn't affect the power/torque and also cause backfiring/popping.

The front pipes arent much better looking but appear to be stainless so gonna have a go at cleaning up if not stove paint them?

The front pipes are stainless and always get in a mess - they clean up with Solvol Autosol, a pan scrubber and a lot of elbow grease.

Fastner replacement - will be a thing-
does anyone have caliper bolt sizes for front calipers?
Front facing engine case bolts size?
possibly more on this as time goes on lol

I recommend that you get a Haynes or a Clymer Manual if you intend working on the bike - It will pay for itself over and over again and answer a lot of these questions. :smile:
See also the BMW Parts Fiche https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select and enter the last 7 digits of your VIN into the Serial No. box to get your specific bike build in the Parts Table under the generic diagrams.
Ced.

R1100RT 1996.
Sent by Boson Quantum Transmission from the Starship 'Galahad'.
http://www.researchgate.net/publication ... ing_bosons" - It works!

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby russ1150 » Thu Jul 12, 2018 11:23 pm

Thanks for the quick reply - I have got the Haynes manual which is handy for torque settings but it doesn't mention bolt sizes for re-ordering.
- it took me round the garden path re the fork seals having the whole front end in bits wasn't necessary - I kind of noticed this just as we were putting back together so keen to avoid repeats ;)

There is a bolt kit for the brake calipers but it is stainless - I Don't mind stainless on the pinch bolts but would rather attach to the fork with hi tensile or titanium (if available)

Thanks for the other info will particularly look out for that wheel washer.
Russ :wink:
BIKE CV:
Current: 2004 R1150RS
Previous: 2000 Honda 650 Deauville, 1997 ZZR 600E , 1993 GT550, 1991 GT750, 1983 CBX550, 1979 CX500, 1974 CB200

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby andys » Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:27 am

90,000 miles.
Always comforting to hear of these bikes being up to high mileage.
My 1100RS is on 28,000 so still a fair amount of life in the old girl yet
:cool:

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby russ1150 » Sat Jul 14, 2018 12:07 am

90,000 miles.
Always comforting to hear of these bikes being up to high mileage.
My 1100RS is on 28,000 so still a fair amount of life in the old girl yet
:cool:

You've barely run it in - I tend to buy bikes as projects its a while since I've seen one with 28k on I think ZZR 600 I had was about there when I bought it - loads of hassle electrics etc.


My 1150 RS has dealer service history to 64k miles _ I say its a project but to be honest its fine just scuzzy underneath - MOT till Nov

- most urgent was fork seals/rear tyre, Ill need to put front brake pads in too but that can wait til next months wage
Russ :wink:
BIKE CV:
Current: 2004 R1150RS
Previous: 2000 Honda 650 Deauville, 1997 ZZR 600E , 1993 GT550, 1991 GT750, 1983 CBX550, 1979 CX500, 1974 CB200

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby Jaythro » Sat Jul 14, 2018 6:10 am

There is a bolt kit for the brake calipers but it is stainless - I Don't mind stainless on the pinch bolts but would rather attach to the fork with hi tensile or titanium (if available)
Just use Stainless or the standard 8.8 bolts as far as I can recall, High Tensile i.e. 10.9 "or Titanium" are not recommended where there are large shear forces in play i.e. a person (or 2 persons) in motorcycle clothing trying to stop a mass of 400 kg or thereabouts from high speed whilst sitting on it :)
"Put your Ass on a motorcycle and ride with an attitude and the "Grim Reaper" will ride in your shadow!"

Islandmagee in case you're interested?

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby Richard(Sande)Sanders » Sat Jul 14, 2018 8:11 am

There is a bolt kit for the brake calipers but it is stainless - I Don't mind stainless on the pinch bolts but would rather attach to the fork with hi tensile or titanium (if available)
Just use Stainless or the standard 8.8 bolts as far as I can recall, High Tensile i.e. 10.9 "or Titanium" are not recommended where there are large shear forces in play i.e. a person (or 2 persons) in motorcycle clothing trying to stop a mass of 400 kg or thereabouts from high speed whilst sitting on it :)
I would stick with the standard bolts for the calipers, I've never changed them on any of the bikes
I've had, & never had any trouble with them. A little copper grease on caliper bolts & fairing/bodywork
screws makes later work easier, never use it on the rear wheel bolts, & NEVER over tighten them, they
bolt into an alloy hub
For parts new & used, Motorworks, James Sherlock, & Motobins are usually better value than your local
dealer, & often as quick.

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby milleplod » Sat Jul 14, 2018 11:15 am

If the bolts are just cosmetically challenged, rather than chewed up, you could try cleaning and polishing them - I used my Dremel with a wire brush fitted, got the heads nice and shiny and then carefully painted good-quality alloy wheel lacquer onto them, making sure none went into the recess. They looked like new, and 10k miles down the road, still did.......then my ST went down the road....! :lol:

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby sykospain » Sat Jul 14, 2018 11:23 am

Two issues that you need to attend to before any further standard lubricant replacements and any cosmetic changes :-

1)
the single-plate hydraulically-operated dry clutch. It's like an ancient Morris Mini-Minor dry clutch but without the stability and correct alignment provided by a thrust-bearing, plus being laid out back-to-front.

It has a dark and benighted history because on some models of this bike, it can suddenly strip out its splines on the friction plate and those mating ones entering the gearbox. With an alarmingly loud graunching sound that instantly leaves you stranded by the roadside. There are many causes of this dramatic failure, often because riders unknowingly sit at a red light, in first gear holding the clutch lever in. This out-dated design of a clutch, which BMW Motorrad has used since the Second World War, must always be operated like a switch - in and out - with nothing in-between. Positively no slipping whatsoever, apart obviously from when you initially move off from a standstill.

The mechanism is hydraulically-operated by an inadequately-designed and sourced bicycle slave cylinder, whose tiny pathetic bearing can collapse due to polluted / condensation-contaminated hydraulic fluid, leading to the fluid passing backwards along the actuating rod that presses on the clutch spring diaphragm when you grab the clutch lever. This then contaminates the dry friction plate, with obvious bad consequences.

It's therefore essential to renew the entire clutch hydraulic fluid at intervals of, at the very most, every 12 months of regular use.... and if you're an enthusiastic Weekend Warrior, which it appears you are, you should immediately investigate the current condition of that pesky slave cylinder. Remove the rear wheel and suspension strut and struggle behind the hidden crossbar to access the three bolts holding the Magura-brand slave cylinder to the back of the bell-housing. You need a flexi-coupling on your quarter-inch hex-head wrench.

2) The Ignition Stick Coils.

If your bike has two spark-plugs per cylinder, the upper ones are accessed down a long tube in the cylinder head. ~A hot and aggressive environment containing in this tight tube an ignition stick coil that's very prone to condensation-corrosion, which leads to lumpy running and misfiring. The latest ones have a stainless-steel outer sleeve that's claimed by the manufacturer, 'Beru' better to resist corrosion. They're £80 each.

Just a couple of items for you to think about, before I even get to the issue of the inadequate insulation on the wiring connecting the Hall-Effect Sensor plate hidden behind the crank-pulley assembly that's under the large black cover on the front of the motor.

My senior-mechanic son always advises that if you ever want to do any DIY work on your vehicle, carefully close your Haynes manual, put it back on the shelf and then, instead, consult either a BMW Motorrad expert, not necessarily a main dealer, someone like "Steptoe" in his GShop in London, but mainly focus your computer on the dozens of YouTube videos made during the last decade by the colourfully-spoken US expert Chris Harris, formerly 'Affordable Beemer Services' and then 'Team Monkey Productions', who's currently going native with his family in a beat-up RV around the northern States, having sold up his workshop and home base in New Hampshire, before hopefully in the not-too-distant future, returning to his prime unchallenged skills as a BMW Boxer and K-bike world-renowned expert.

Buena suerte,

AL in south-east Spain
This is the list of people I'd trust with my bike.

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby ssray » Sat Jul 14, 2018 10:58 pm

Your front exhaust pipes
Try harpic 10(something) about £1 per bottle at home batgains, great stuff for dull/rusty stainless
I use a green kitchen sponge thing to apply with a bit of pressure, then do the autosol bit at its easier yhen

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby Galactic Greyhound » Sat Jul 14, 2018 11:51 pm

I have heard of using Harpic and it is said to be effective but the pipes will still require regular maintenance with Solvol Autosol afterwards to keep them looking good.

I bought a bottle to try out but after reading about its ingredients I got a bit wary about using it.

If using Harpic for bike cleaning purposes, it would be advisable to wear eye protection and protective gloves:
Ingredients: Hydrochloric acid, Hydroxyethyl oleylamine, Cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, Ammonium chloride, Methyl salicylate, Butylated hydroxytoluene, Acid Blue 25, Acid red 88, Deionized Water.

Concentrated hydrochloric acid (fuming hydrochloric acid) forms acidic mists. Both the mist and the solution have a corrosive effect on human tissue, with the potential to damage respiratory organs, eyes, skin, and intestines irreversibly.

The hydrochloric acid in Harpic is much diluted to 10% to make it safer for domestic use but it is still not something I would want in contact with my skin.

Ref: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harpic
Ced.

R1100RT 1996.
Sent by Boson Quantum Transmission from the Starship 'Galahad'.
http://www.researchgate.net/publication ... ing_bosons" - It works!

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby Jaythro » Sun Jul 15, 2018 1:56 pm

Have a look for "the Pink Stuff" on the t'internet its great for cleaning of road grime etc

and then if you can find it get an Old Tube of Zebo grate paste and coat the headers when cold (the old stuff has more lead in it) and then once warmed for 30 seconds or so you can polish it and repeat a couple of times you end up with a Graphite layer keeping most crap off them
"Put your Ass on a motorcycle and ride with an attitude and the "Grim Reaper" will ride in your shadow!"

Islandmagee in case you're interested?

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby russ1150 » Thu Jul 19, 2018 10:24 pm

Good stuff folks, thanks for all the input, I will digest and apply these suggestions as time permits.

another happy 200 mile ride on the bike today with new rear tyre , it does just fit me great and is so comfortable and confidence inspiring compared to some of the stuff I've had in the past.

I've heard of the harpic idea before and will give it a try, autosol on its own was hard work but does show some improvement, but its stopped me looking for new headers on Ebay!

Gear/shaft oil change is still to do as it seems only GL4 is available in my small town, so will need to order some.

Looking at the plugs and coils revealed pristine condition, I'm now thinking that it has had care taken and that the corrosion is just all-weather riding as when taking the wheels out all bolts on the calipers etc where well maintained its just surface corrosion on the heads .

Further studying of the history suggests that the electrics have had some attention at least a new battery, coils, alternator belt and starter motor between 50 and 60k miles .

The clutch will get an easy life from now on I live on the west coast of Scotland there is very few traffic jams, or even traffic lights, Oban at schooltime or a sunny summer sunday is about the worst it'll have to deal with. Will change the fluid as suggested and maybe get a look at the cylinders when the weather turns bad?
Russ :wink:
BIKE CV:
Current: 2004 R1150RS
Previous: 2000 Honda 650 Deauville, 1997 ZZR 600E , 1993 GT550, 1991 GT750, 1983 CBX550, 1979 CX500, 1974 CB200

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby Dode4444 » Thu Jul 19, 2018 11:51 pm

I have a delkevic exhaust and link pipe just fitted to my 1150RT. Only done 50-60 miles so far.....
haven’t noticed any performance gain personally but it’s definitely a lot lighter than the original.
Regards to noise/sound it is a lot louder and a very deep tone, almost on the verge of too loud for the style of bike that it is in my opinion. But no popping or backfiring whatsoever yet.


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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby russ1150 » Fri Jul 20, 2018 12:19 am

Thanks Dode4444- no I wasn't expecting a huge increase in performance, just hopefully a bit tidier appearance and lighter weight - it'll take a while to notice fuel savings but just a wee bit shaved off the weight should help - do you run it with db killer baffle out or in?
Russ :wink:
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Current: 2004 R1150RS
Previous: 2000 Honda 650 Deauville, 1997 ZZR 600E , 1993 GT550, 1991 GT750, 1983 CBX550, 1979 CX500, 1974 CB200

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby Dode4444 » Fri Jul 20, 2018 7:22 pm

I’m running it with the baffle in just now as it’s pretty loud, I am going to go a run soon though with it out to judge the difference now I’ve done a few miles


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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby russ1150 » Fri Jul 20, 2018 10:55 pm

It'll probably seem very loud then with the baffle out - some say it runs cleaner with the baffle out and some say it needs the back pressure - Loctite the baffle when you put it back having disturbed it lost one on my zzr 6 that way - the ZZR was way too loud with the baffles out you could hear it miles away lol
Russ :wink:
BIKE CV:
Current: 2004 R1150RS
Previous: 2000 Honda 650 Deauville, 1997 ZZR 600E , 1993 GT550, 1991 GT750, 1983 CBX550, 1979 CX500, 1974 CB200

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby Dode4444 » Fri Jul 20, 2018 11:40 pm

The baffle is secured with a screw anyway, I briefly had it out after fitting but put it back in before riding on the road. Hopefully if weather plays ball tomorrow I’ll get a run with it out. And take ear plugs with me haha.


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george baker
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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby george baker » Sat Jul 21, 2018 11:31 am

Hi
I am told there is a smart phone app to measure noise level which may help you determine the difference

George
Member 21, R100R, K75 and a Hyosung 250 FOR SALE

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby Dode4444 » Sat Jul 21, 2018 12:54 pm

Thanks for that George I’ll have a look


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russ1150
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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby russ1150 » Sat Aug 11, 2018 12:03 am

Since the last post I've put another 1000 miles , just loving the weather at the moment its riding not fettling weather ;)

- had a night out camping in Ullapool which was fabulous as did the famous bealach na ba road at Applecross- I was camped next to a couple at Ullapool who had a Red 1100 RT & Triumph ( Hello if your on here)- fantastic roads and scenery in the Northwest!
Russ :wink:
BIKE CV:
Current: 2004 R1150RS
Previous: 2000 Honda 650 Deauville, 1997 ZZR 600E , 1993 GT550, 1991 GT750, 1983 CBX550, 1979 CX500, 1974 CB200

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Re: Rejuvenating my R1150RS _ a few questions

Postby russ1150 » Sat Aug 11, 2018 12:06 am

The baffle is secured with a screw anyway,
Aye I meant Loctite the screw - the one on the zzr lost the screw - the baffle fortunately was still undamaged in the road , it was an el cheapo Chinese one though, only way I could keep 4-2 on the Kawasaki all the decent systems were 4 -1 a fair bit of bodgery involved ;)
Russ :wink:
BIKE CV:
Current: 2004 R1150RS
Previous: 2000 Honda 650 Deauville, 1997 ZZR 600E , 1993 GT550, 1991 GT750, 1983 CBX550, 1979 CX500, 1974 CB200


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