R1100RT, the story so far

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Howard64180
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R1100RT, the story so far

Postby Howard64180 » Mon Jun 18, 2018 9:50 pm

Hi, I'm new here and have just posted in the 'Introduce Yourself' section.

I have recently purchased a 1996 R1100RT that, as expected, needed lots of work. The 'new' front brake pads that had been fitted recently were not new at all - one of them was delaminating. Overall at the front end, I have fitted a new gaiter on the ball joint, new brake pads, new caliper seals and have cleaned and rebuilt the master cylinder.

The fuel pump plate looked very clean, as if it had been worked on recently (the pump filter screen was as new). The fuel filter was dated 2014, so I gave it a blow through and otherwise left things alone. The fuel tank breather was blocked though. I've checked the valve clearances and will balance the throttle bodies once it's running again. The Hall sensor looks like it may have been replaced (the sheathing on the connector had been cut open and a fixing bolt had been replaced).

At the back end I found that turning the wheel produced a 'clonking' sound. I thought it was the rear drive or UJ, but on stripping things apart (thank you, Chris Harris) found the noise was coming from the gearbox (M97 'box). On the way in there I found: rear wheel bolts barely tight, one paralever pin half undone, one swinging arm pin loose and the other with a stripped thread. The noise from the gearbox appears to have been a bad bearing on the output shaft. I am presently waiting for a local engineering firm to repair the swinging arm pin thread in the gearbox casing. They're busy and I'm trying to be patient.

All of this shows that if you buy an old bike it pays to get stuck in there and find out what has/hasn't been done. I'm sure I'll have some questions for the experts in 'Technical' once I'm able to progress further.

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george baker
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Re: R1100RT, the story so far

Postby george baker » Mon Jun 18, 2018 9:55 pm

Hi
welcome, not quite good news. How long have you had it? Where did you buy from?
George
Member 21, R100R, K75 and a Hyosung 250 FOR SALE

Howard64180
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Re: R1100RT, the story so far

Postby Howard64180 » Mon Jun 18, 2018 10:03 pm

It was an Ebay purchase (no, I never learn). I've had it about a month and have spent many hours in the shed!

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Galactic Greyhound
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Re: R1100RT, the story so far

Postby Galactic Greyhound » Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:12 pm

The 'cut open HES connector sheathing' could be the previous owner was attempting to forestall HES failure by inspecting/rewiring the HES cable.
This normally fails at around 50,000 miles due to disintegration of the PVC wiring - most folks just buy a new HES at around £150 and fit that when it fails.

Click to Enlarge/Save As
HES wiring insulation failure.jpg
Photo: Dagda [BMRC]
Ref: http://www.bmbikes.org.uk/Forum/viewtop ... 79#p132279


The Fuel Tank Filler Cap DRAIN blockage is a common problem - keep it clear by spraying WD40 into the Fuel Filler Cap drain hole (at 9 o'clock position) on a regular basis until it drips from the rubber drain tube on the RH side of the bike at the back of the rear brake lever.
The other rubber tube there is for the Fuel Tank Vent which is a vent/anti-spill valve device fitted at the top of the tank around the Fuel Cap filler tube.


Stripped Paralever Swing Arm pin threads can be caused by attempting to loosen the pins without heating them first.
The pins are locked with Red Loctite which must be softened first before loosening or the Swing Arm threads can be stripped out.
The Red Loctite appears to be a safety overkill - I do NOT use any Loctite on these pin threads as this allows the LH adjuster pin play to be adjusted easily without having to remove the whole pin assembly and clean the threads before adjustment can be done.
I believe that Chris Harris also advocates this method.
Check the rear wheel Paralever pin play (by locking on the rear brake) at regular intervals if you adopt the 'No Loctite' procedure for the pins.


The gearbox is normally a bit 'clunky' in use so be sure that it really is a faulty output shaft bearing before pulling and stripping the gearbox.


You seem to know what you are doing and having a lot of fun with the bike!
I have always believed that the R1100RT is the best of the Oilheads but I'm biased having had mine for around 20 years now. :smile:
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Ced.

R1100RT 1996.
Sent by Boson Quantum Transmission from the Starship 'Galahad'.
http://www.researchgate.net/publication ... ing_bosons" - It works!

Howard64180
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Re: R1100RT, the story so far

Postby Howard64180 » Tue Jun 19, 2018 7:24 am

Hi Ced, thanks for your detailed reply.

The wiring on the HES looks untouched, so I'm hoping it was replacement rather than repair. (Ah, just realised - When I say sheathing, I mean the plastic cover on the connector.)

It was actually the main swinging arm threads in the gearbox that were stripped. I could see the stripped pin on the inside of the gearbox housing before I took it out. That particular pin was surprisingly tight given that it was stripped and there was no Loctite on it - took heat and a breaker bar.

The clunking noise occurred when turning the rear wheel by hand, and I could just barely turn the output shaft by hand. The gearbox is now stripped and there is definitely a rough bearing on the output shaft. One of the input shaft bearings is a bit loose so I'll replace that too.

The only reason I look like I know what I'm doing is because I spend a lot on time on the internet! One thing I can't find out is, how much wear is acceptable on the selector forks? (I think Anton Largiader would say 'none'.) Bear in mind this is a M97 gearbox - it's the third gear selector fork on the intermediate shaft that looks a bit scored.

Howard

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Galactic Greyhound
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Re: R1100RT, the story so far

Postby Galactic Greyhound » Tue Jun 19, 2018 9:26 am

Hi Howard,

HES Connector sheathing (plastic cover):
This hardens with age and is crimped onto the main loom to keep it in position.
The method I adopt to access the connector is to use a Heat Gun on a low setting to soften the cover and then roll it up and over the connector halves and its crimp.

Sorry - Can't help you with the gearbox as I have never had mine apart let alone removed!
Post your query in the 'Oilhead Q&A' section as there are many guys here who have rebuilt gearboxes and/or are very knowledgable about them.

When refitting your driveshaft, make sure that the 'Phasing' of the UJs is correct.

I think I have been lucky with my R1100RT - only had to replace the Cylinder Head gaskets (oil weepage, later issue gaskets fitted), HES (at 55,000), shock absorbers (Hagon), brake lines (Goodridge braided), Fuel Tank Plate (pass-through connection for Fuel Gauge failed) and still on the original clutch at nearly 80,000 miles.
They are long-lasting and very capable long-distance tourers.

I would replace the HES unit however as it is getting near the end of its 50,000 mile lifespan if it has not already been changed.

Good luck with the restoration! :smile:
Ced.

R1100RT 1996.
Sent by Boson Quantum Transmission from the Starship 'Galahad'.
http://www.researchgate.net/publication ... ing_bosons" - It works!

Jockboxer
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Re: R1100RT, the story so far

Postby Jockboxer » Tue Jun 19, 2018 1:21 pm

Hope you got it cheap!

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Re: R1100RT, the story so far

Postby andys » Wed Jun 20, 2018 8:04 pm

It was an Ebay purchase (no, I never learn). I've had it about a month and have spent many hours in the shed!
I don't think you can blame ebay.
Being realistic, you can end up with a pup from any used bike source.
Having read this thread, I do feel very lucky with my 1100RS, purchased from James Sherlock.
Two years and only a couple of minor niggles.

Howard64180
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Re: R1100RT, the story so far

Postby Howard64180 » Thu Jun 21, 2018 7:39 am

No, I don't blame Ebay. To be honest, that was a senior moment, it was Gumtree :smile:


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